Thursday, July 8, 2010

Les panneaux publicitaires

As I have been getting around here in Morocco, I am struck by all the indications that the French language is alive, well, and in use in Morocco. There are traces of the French colonial era everywhere: in the cafés, in the architecture, in the social institutions, in transportation...For example, here is a street corner on the main avenue in Kénitra. Notice the billboard in Arabic. It's for a French bank: Société Générale. Next to it is a newspaper stand ("kiosque" in French). But this isn't just any old newspaper stand. It's the Kiosque Balzac! Named of course for the great French novelist and national icon, Honoré de Balzac. Next to it? Balzac Pub!

I am going to make a visual language unit using Moroccan bulletin boards for my students to explore language, culture, globalization, and have fun!

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

La bess


Today was a day for getting to know people and getting familiar with Morocco. Since I am a language teacher, I would like to share some of the simple but essential terms for getting around in Morocco:
  • Salaam aleikum = Peace Be With You (Hello)
  • Aleikum Salaam = With You Be There Peace (Response to Hello)
  • Shukran = Thank you
  • La shukra alla wajeeb = No thanks for an obligation (You're welcome)
  • La bess? = No problem? (How are things going?)
  • La bess = No problem (Things are going well.)
  • Smeetik? = What is your name?
  • Ismee _______ = My name is _________
  • Waha = Okay
  • Shkoon? = Who?
  • Eshnoo? = What?
  • Fokash? = When?
  • Feen? = Where?
  • Alesh? = Why?
  • M'sh-hall? = How much?
  • Mzeeyen = Good
  • Khaib = Bad
  • B'salama = Goodbye
An interesting thing it is to greet someone in Morocco. If you know the person or are introduced by a friend, you kiss cheek to cheek and a good friend will end on the last cheek with a spurt of kisses as if it is hard to let you go (a bit awkward, but nice). Then comes the "La bess" litany. "La bess", as I mentioned above, means "no problem". The Moroccans use it to ask a litany of questions when you first greet each other. A greeting between two people usually goes something like this:
  • "La bess?" ("No problem?")
  • "La bess." ("No problem.")
  • "Inta la bess?" ("No problem with you?")
  • "La bess." ("No problem.")
  • "Saha la bess?" ("Your health, no problem?")
  • "Saha la bess." ("My health no problem.")
  • "Draree la bess?" ("Your children no problem?")
  • "Draree la bess." ("My children no problem.")
  • "Hedma la bess?" ("Your work no problem?")
  • "Hedma la bess." ("My work no problem.")
  • "Coolshee la bess?" ("Everything no problem?")
  • "Coolshee la bess" ("Everything no problem.")
  • "Hemdoollah." ("Praise be to God.")
  • "Hemdoollah." ("Praise be to God.")
Moroccan Arabic is very different from Arabic elsewhere (although it is very similar to Algerian or Tunisian Arabic). It is influenced heavily by the French and Spanish colonial era as well as by the Berber way of speaking. As a French teacher, I am most intrigued by the French words that have become part of the regular social discourse in Morocco, even if someone doesn't know French. Since so many words in French and Spanish are similar, it is sometimes hard to tell if the word in Moroccan dialect came from French or Spanish.

For example, when a Moroccan wants to tell someone to "hurry up", they often will say "serbee" which is an aberration of the French word "service" (ser-vees). Here is a list of French terms that regularly occur in Moroccan dialect:
  • Tomobeel from automobile
  • D'accord
  • La gare
  • Bolees from police
  • Speetal from hôpital
Of course, I am able to get around quite well just speaking French. It is nice, though, to show the people here that I am interested in their language and culture.

Monday, July 5, 2010

L'enfant de sable


I have begun reading one of the novels situated here in Morocco that I hope to study with my AP French students next year. The title of this novel is L'enfant de sable (The sand child) by the well-known Moroccan author Tahar Ben Jelloun. He has won many awards for his writing, both poetry and fiction. I look forward to reading his work and sharing it with my students.

This story touches on questions of identity and culture as it tells the tale of an 8th daughter raised as a son because the family had no son. I think it evokes many of the contradictions between traditional and modern perspectives of culture, sexuality, and self.

As part of my fellowship, I plan to visit many of the places that figure prominently in his stories and poetry so I can bring his writing "alive" for my students. Having read the first chapter of this novel, I can already tell that he spins a beautiful tale full of imagery and common human experiences. I particularly like that this novel is told through the voice of a conteur (storyteller) in a very traditional North African style. Poetic and lovely!

Sunday, July 4, 2010

Couscous ~ Seksu


Today was the day for couscous. The entire family gathered around 2pm, there were about 15 people. The food was served in two rooms: One for the men and another for the women. This was more the convenience than for religious or misogynist reasons: There were just so many people to serve that we had to be divided into two groups.

Couscous is the traditional dish of North Africa, most closely associated with Morocco. The term "couscous" ("seksu" in Berber) describes the pasta grains used in the dish as well as the stew that is poured over the grains.

The couscous stew is traditionally made with seven vegetables. Today's seven vegetables were carrots, potatoes, pumpkin, zucchini, turnip, chick peas, and onions. Couscous comes in many forms: It can have very small pasta grains or very large ones, it can be made with meat
(usually lamb) or with fish, it can be savory and loaded with vegetables or sweet and sprinkled with almonds, cinnamon, and sugar. The couscous grains are often made at home from semolina, but they can also be bought at market or in stores. The grains are steamed over the couscous stew until they are light and fluffy. This requires the grains to be wet, steamed, tossed to keep them form sticking, and then steamed again three times over. Once the grains are fully steamed, they are arranged in a circle inside a large wooden bowl. Meat and vegetables are then arranged and equally distributed inside the circle of couscous. Finally, broth is poured over the grains, vegetables and meat, and the dish is served at a round table.

Everyone eats couscous with their hands, although large spoons are provided for those who do not wish to eat with their hands. How do you eat couscous with your hands? Well, there is a special technique that is easy to master. It involves gathering to your portion of the large bowl (the area right in front of you) all the various ingredients: couscous grains, potato, meat, chick pea, carrot, zucchini, pumpkin, onion and then mashing them together with your fingertips. (You always use your right hand for rolling couscous into balls.) Once it is all well-blended, you scoop the mixture into your hand and begin to squeeze and roll the ingredients to form a ball. Then, you pop the ball into your mouth, without touching your mouth to your hand. My friend Habouba graciously allowed me to film her demonstrating this technique:

I got curious about the history of couscous and I found this very informative site on the web.

Here is our dish after we were done eating:

Saturday, July 3, 2010

Morocco That Was

As part of my fellowship research, I am currently reading "Morocco That Was" by Walter Harris. This travelogue was originally published in 1921. The author was a journalist for The Times, a London newspaper and he may have even been a spy for the British in Morocco. He was a witness to events in Morocco in the last decade of the 19th century and the first decade of the 20th century. His purpose in writing this book was to document for posterity Morocco as it was before the French protectorate began in 1912 and before Morocco was a colonized nation. There are many interesting anecdotes throughout this book about Sultan Moulay Abdul Aziz who abdicated his throne in 1908 in favor of his older brother, Moulay Abdul Hafid, who later ceded Morocco to the French protectorat in 1912.

The current King of Morocco is Mohammed VI. He is the son of King Hassan II who ruled Morocco so brutally from the 1960's through the 1990's. The father of King Hassan II was Mohammed V who had lived in exile during the French protectorate and who regained the throne when the French left Morocco in 1956. The father of Mohammed V was Moulay Youssef, the son of Moulay Abdul Hafid. Morocco is a parliamentary democracy in name, yet the King of Morocco is an absolute monarch. Since Hassan II died in 1999, Morocco has experienced new freedoms and immense economic growth.

What I am observing during this fellowship is that the very old and traditional exists alongside the modern and forward-thinking here in Morocco. There are beautiful ruins and very old buildings just as there is an amazing amount of new construction and many beautiful, modern buildings. There are women and men dressed in traditional clothing, others in clothes that show their attachment to a fundamentalist version of Islam (a broad array of veils and headscarves for the women, long flowing robes and beards for the men), and just as many men and women wearing very Western-style clothes. Greetings here are very important moments for expressing respect, care and concern. The men kiss each other on the cheek when they greet, as do the women.

I look forward to finishing this book and comparing the Morocco before the French protectorate with the Morocco of today. As I visit the sites mentioned in this book, I hope to find some of the traces of the Morocco That Was.

Friday, July 2, 2010

Cora (Le football) [Soccer]

(My view of the game from my seat at the back of the cafe. I'm the only woman here.)

Today is the first day of World Cup Quarterfinals, so at 3:00 pm and at 7:30 pm local Moroccan time, all things come to a halt. All the men, most of the kids and a few of the women are watching the games. (The rest of the women will greatly enjoy a break from the demands of their families.) Traffic is light. The normally busy and bustling streets are vacated. Wait! What's that noise, the collective cheer that resounds through the neighborhoods whenever a goal is scored. How sweet it is to experience this worldwide event in a country that is passionate about soccer, what the locals call "cora" (meaning "ball", 'cause this is the only ball they care about), even though their national team didn't come close to making the cut.

In this first game today, it's Netherlands vs. Brazil. It appears most of the locals are cheering for the Netherlands --- perhaps because there are so many Moroccan immigrants in the Netherlands. Or, maybe because Brazil has been portrayed as such a heavy favorite so they are rooting for the perceived underdog. Really, no one cares, it's just great to watch this beloved game being played at such a high, competitive level.

So, I've ordered my delicious mint green tea. I'm enjoying the experience, soaking it all in, and counting on another similar experience later this evening when Uruguay takes on Ghana. For that match, I can guarantee that all Moroccans will be pulling for Ghana --- the only African nation to make it to the Quarter Finals.

(My individual pot of mint tea.)

Thursday, July 1, 2010

Thamusida


Today was a day for great adventures! We traveled 17 kilometers northeast of Kenitra and then followed a very narrow and bumpy dirt road some three more kilometers until we came upon the Roman ruins at Thamusida. This was a Roman fortified port on the Oued Sebou (the same river alongside which we had coffee a few days ago) from somewhere around 200 BC through about 300 AD. Since most of the site has yet to be fully explored by archaeologists, it was really fun to wander among the ruins and try to determine what they were. The site caretaker joined us after about an hour of exploring and explained the purposes of each area and the ongoing archaeological digs and research there. The site is overlooked by a marabout's shrine, which I also visited. The sun set as we toured the area and the views over the Oued Sebou were amazing!