Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Sfenj

What are sfenj? (s-f-en-j: pronounce it just the way it looks; it rhymes with Stone Henge). Apparently, it comes from the Greek word for "sponge" and they have been making them in Morocco since the Greeks and Phoenicians were here.

These are a Moroccan treat, similar to fried doughnuts, but much better. They are made from a dough that is slightly sour (I think there's buttermilk in the batter) and you don't usually make them at home. Every neighborhood in Morocco has a sfenj seller, one step up from a street vendor, who makes your order right in front of your eyes. They usually have a dynamic technique for rolling the dough in their hands to make a ball, punching it through with their thumb, stretching the dough and then dropping it into very hot oil. They use a long metal hook to turn the sfenj over and they cook them until they are beyond golden brown. They are sold by weight. Once your order is cooked, they bundle them up into heavy paper sacks (almost as heavy as cardboard) and you rush home with them so everyone can eat them piping hot.

What makes sfenj so good? Certainly having them with mint tea while they're still hot is part of the equation. You can sprinkle them with sugar or dip them in honey if you like, but most people eat them plain. They are crispy on the outside, tender and slightly chewy on the inside --- so texture adds to the pleasure of the sfenj. But, for what its worth, in my opinion, what makes sfenj so good is the anticipation of watching them get made, rushing them home hot, and waiting for the tea to be poured. As with most delicacies, the first bite is always the best.

Today I went to the sfenj monger. He let me film him at work. If you watch the video clip, notice the kids hanging around just to watch. You probably can't understand what the sfenj monger is saying, so I'll tell you that at one point he said he has plans to go to America and get rich making sfenj --- He's welcome to come to my neighborhood anytime.

So, my second day is over. I am learning all kinds of new things and making plans for great learning experiences. I love the idea of bringing this culture, the values and perspectives of these people back to my students and school.

Tuesday, June 29, 2010

First Day in Morocco



Today was my first full day in Morocco. I spent the day getting all the important details worked out: SIM card for my cell phone, wireless internet modem so I can travel and blog, meeting new friends and catching up with old friends. The weather is beautiful and the people are generous and friendly. I will have to get used to their creative use of car horns, but other than that, I am feeling very much at home.

I am staying in Kenitra as my home base. I have been reading about the history of Morocco: Kenitra was founded in 1913, the early days of the French Protectorate. Kenitra was known as Port Lyautey from 1933 to 1955, named after General Lyautey who settled and essentially governed Morocco for the French. There used to be an American military base here. Kenitra is about 40 km to the north of Rabat on the Atlantic coast.

For my one real outing today, I went with friends to a café overlooking the Oued Sebou (the river that flows through Kenitra to the Atlantic).

Tuesday, June 22, 2010

My departure from Oklahoma heading to Morocco is set for this coming Saturday. I have countless things to do between now and then. Packing my bags and preparing in advance for this journey is a bit overwhelming. I have purchased several books to help guide me in my journey and to help me to know Morocco better. The first of these books has arrived in the mail and I already began reading it: "Morocco That Was" by Walter Harris, originally published in 1921. I am hoping it will give me insight into Morocco as it was prior to Western influence. I have made plans to visit the Museum of Moroccan Judaism as soon as I get to Morocco. I can't wait for the journey to begin.

Sunday, June 6, 2010

Preparations Leading Up to Departure

Three weeks away from departure and the trip is really coming together. I have made contact with teachers in Morocco whose classes I will visit in their last week before summer break. We have plans to set up classroom to classroom exchanges and I am excited about the possibilities. I have also met with a college professor whose speciality is francophone Moroccan literature --- she will be in Morocco when I am there and promises to help me connect with Moroccan authors and take me to see some of the places that figure prominently in several Moroccan francophone novels. I am trying to make contact with the Jewish community in Casablanca with several promising leads. I am also thrilled that I will be in Morocco for the World Cup finals. Anticipation is exciting! Please follow my trip on twitter: I am listed as "madameaumaroc".